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Chicago’s barbecue creativity isn’t tightly bound by rules or traditions

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* Camila Trimberger-Ruiz at the Sun-Times asks a good question: What’s Chicago barbecue, exactly?

Other states have distinct flavor palettes, side pairings and even types of wood over which they cook the meat. On the national scene, however, Chicago has yet to carve out a distinct identity.

Barry Sorkin of Smoque BBQ (you really, really gotta try it) had a great answer

“I think barbecue chefs in Chicago don’t feel bound by any of the rules or traditions that other regions might feel bound by, and so, I think there’s a lot more creativity here. There’s license to take the craft of smoking meat and do whatever you want, whatever feels right. And I think that’s what makes Chicago barbecue special.”

I couldn’t agree more. Chicago barbecue is whatever individual pit-masters and their customers believe tastes the best without regard to historic regional snobbery. Chicago’s snobbery centers on excellent-tasting barbecue, no matter how it’s done.

* Everyone needs a hobby and barbecue is one of mine. I regularly use three types of grills: Hasty Bake charcoal/wood, Recteq pellet smoker, and Yak hibachi. I also have a generic Weber gas grill and some smaller picnicking grills/camp stoves that I’ve picked up along the way, including a little gas grill for the ol’ pontoon.

The freedom to try completely new ideas is really what I love about barbecuing in this part of the world. Lately, for instance, I’ve been using rosemary from my herb garden (another hobby) in several of my recipes. I’ve also come up with a pork barbecue sauce that I love so much I may try to market it (but, so far, that feels too much like work and I do enough of that already).

My BBQ guru, by the way, is Meathead Goldwyn, the Chicago-area founder of AmazingRibs.com. Give that site a look. You’ll find top-notch ideas on all sorts of barbecue styles and lots of insight into the science of cooking outdoors. Before you can successfully break the rules, you gotta know what the rules are.

Anyway, I’d absolutely hate to be constrained by regional taste demands. Our way is superior.

* Your thoughts?

posted by Rich Miller
Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 9:50 am

Comments

  1. Do you use rosemary in a sauce, or as part of a dry rub? I love the taste of rosemary, and would be eager to see any recipes you’re willing to share.

    Comment by South of Sherman Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 9:53 am

  2. =without traditional regional snobbery=

    . . . and yet they melt down if one puts ketchup on a hot dog.

    Comment by Really? Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 10:06 am

  3. Please remember that Murphysboro is the official BBQ Capital of Illinois, as declared by resolution of the Illinois House in 2015. I yield back the balance of my time.

    https://17bbq.com/

    https://www.facebook.com/PatsBBQandCatering/

    Comment by Mayor Will Stephens Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 10:34 am

  4. I’m a Chicagoan, but Metro-East native. The ribs are very different - chewy vs. tender. Chi is more brisket and pulled pork vs. the Metro E which does (the incredible) pork steaks. Hot links are a thing here too, but different from the ones I have had in Oklahoma.

    Comment by levivotedforjudy Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 10:34 am

  5. Traditionalists are weird, whether we’re talking food, arts, religion, or anything else where there are made up rules that people insist must be followed.

    All human endeavors started as one guy (or gal) making something up that they liked. People who insist on some sort of arbitrary rule out of adherence to tradition and some need to have structure are not to be trusted.

    Comment by Homebody Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 10:38 am

  6. “Traditionalists are weird”

    Without them, what cause would the rebels have?

    Comment by James Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 10:40 am

  7. I love a good smoked beef rib, but nothing quite satisfies like a pile of rib tips over fries and a slice of wonder bread from an “aquarium smoker” on any west side joint.

    Comment by Chito Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 10:41 am

  8. == Please remember that Murphysboro is the official BBQ Capital of Illinois ==

    Totally agree. Pat’s is a must if you’re around!

    Comment by Isabel Miller Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 10:42 am

  9. FaxSauce — coming to da Jewel near you

    Comment by Alton Sinkhole Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 10:46 am

  10. I have had a hasty bake charcoal oven for 35 years. Very versatile. Grill, roast, smoke, and whatever else requires combustion and food.

    Comment by Langhorne Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 10:55 am

  11. Meathead is a GOAT bbq guru. Gary Wiviott’s “Low and Slow” has been my bbq bible (https://www.amazon.com/Low-Slow-Master-Barbecue-Lessons/dp/0762436093). Detailed instructions customized for offset, kettle (how I started), and WSM (what I use now).

    Comment by semoore2005 Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 10:58 am

  12. And Smoque is indeed a must try. Particularly the brisket. And the slaw is a lesson in simplicity.

    Comment by semoore2005 Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 11:02 am

  13. Slats Grobnik is smiling down from above!

    Comment by Jerry Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 11:02 am

  14. The most quintessential Chicago BBQ style/dish is the ribtip and hotlink snackpack combo in a tangy hickory sauce. It is a lost art for sure, and some of the classic purveyors have completely forgotten how to do it well, but it would be nice to see some of these newcomers try to bring it back.

    Comment by 7th Generation Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 11:13 am

  15. ===rosemary in a sauce, or as part of a dry rub===

    Yes.

    lol

    Comment by Rich Miller Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 11:23 am

  16. Worked at 17th street for Mr Mills in the early 2000s. Smoke is just another ingredient to play with, so many ways to impart flavor based on temp, wood type, etc etc. Love ALL types of BBQ, but for me true BBQ uses no sauce its smoked meat with some dry rub. Sauce on BBQ is fine, but it hides the smoke.

    Comment by BluegrassBoy Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 11:27 am

  17. Mike Mills said Whitt’s (Murphysboro, IL) was the best ever. His rendition of that recipe in on page 23 of his book “Peace, Love, & Barbecue”. He also pointed out that the lodge at Giant City has Whitt’s original recipe. I ate at Whitt’s in the 60s and have some of the Giant City version of the sauce in my fridge. Still great.

    Comment by Bigtwich Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 11:37 am

  18. Meathead’s book changed my life. I am not overselling this!

    Comment by The Truth Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 11:41 am

  19. Good BBQ is good BBQ. Excellent BBQ is Excellent BBQ.

    If Chicago wants to gate keep our hotdogs, okay. That’s fine. The second someone says “no, we only consume this specific type of BBQ sauce with our ribs and we are a brisket only, no burnt ends city” I will revolt.

    Chicago BBQ does not have a history to gatekeep. Let it be as diverse as the people who have made a home in this city who have settled here from every region of the world and every region of the country.

    If along the way we accidentally develop a Chicago Style BBQ, I am sure it will be great — but it will be its own thing and probably have malort flavored sauce.

    Comment by Candy Dogood Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 11:46 am

  20. Chicago BBQ should go sauceless — sorta like the no ketchup rule. Sauceless ribs are fantastic, and good brisket or pork shoulder needs no sauce (just some salt or extra rub for flavor in the finished pulled pork).

    A vinegar sauce is one thing — but anything tomato-based should be excluded (just like ketchup). This would force pitmasters to make perfect Q.

    Sauceless is the ultimate high dive, just a few inches beyond the rocks below.

    Comment by Mr. K Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 12:04 pm

  21. BBQ of various kinds makes good eating. But I’ve never been able to comprehend the emotion that goes into defending different styles, methods, etc.

    It seems like something people pretend to care about, like the ketchup/hot dog thing.

    Comment by Friendly Bob Adams Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 12:08 pm

  22. Apartment renters preferred BBQ method sidewalk Hibachi. So good.

    Comment by I forgot my handle Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 12:09 pm

  23. What Really? said. A little hot dog tolerance would be a good thing.

    Comment by Interested Bystander Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 12:10 pm

  24. ===A little hot dog tolerance===

    That boat has sailed.

    Comment by Rich Miller Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 12:11 pm

  25. ===A little hot dog tolerance would be a good thing===

    What you do in the privacy of your own home is what you do in the privacy of your own home.

    Comment by Candy Dogood Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 12:17 pm

  26. Aren’t aquarium-style smokers (ex: Lem’s BBQ) considered typical Chicago BBQ?

    Comment by Anon E Moose Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 12:21 pm

  27. === considered typical Chicago BBQ? ===

    Yes. But the difference is if you are in the KC region, for example, you are pressured to follow protocol.

    Comment by Rich Miller Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 12:55 pm

  28. I have a fraternity brother who designed and builds competition smokers. Interestingly, he tells me that “low and slow” is not the way that most guys in comps do it. The theory is to bbq faster and at higher heat to help retain more of the moisture in the meat.

    Comment by Stones Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 12:56 pm

  29. ==The most quintessential Chicago BBQ style/dish is the ribtip and hotlink snackpack combo in a tangy hickory sauce.==

    I agree that there is no one style of Chicago barbecue, but if I had to name a style that’s closely identified with the city, this would be the one.

    Comment by charles in charge Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 1:00 pm

  30. ===most guys in comps do it===

    It’s been my experience that competition barbecue is just not good. It’s designed to please judges (the “perfect looking” chicken thighs are an abomination), finish within a set time (hence faster cooking) and often relies on phosphate injections.

    Comment by Rich Miller Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 1:02 pm

  31. Live pretty close to Smoque and get it pretty frequently. It’s really, really good stuff. Wish their steakhouse venture would’ve made it longer, I had some out-of-this-world good meals there.

    For those who’ve mentioned rib tips, give Lil’ Porgy’s in Champaign a shot if you’re ever going through. Great simple tips with really good sauce.

    Comment by Chat_BP3 Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 1:25 pm

  32. In my childhood years, BBQ was ribs over kingsford, slathered in a sauce mom bought from Da Jewels called “The Jug”, came in a little red plastic bottle shaped …like a jug. I don’t know if they still make that but I would buy a bottle for the nostalgia.

    In my college years it was Carson’s or Harry Caray’s or Dick’s Dock at Navy Pier that was what I considered Chicago Barbecue.

    I go back and forth about sauces: sometimes I want vinegar, sometimes not.

    I will put in a plug here for the Chinese/Texas fusion YummyRibs at Jame’s Kitchen in Springfield: this is my go-to place to bring guests and their chicken is also outstanding. Clay’s Pop-eye BBQ is what I used to enjoy for lunches when I worked in Springfield. The meat cuts weren’t always the best but the sauce made up for it.

    I had the best burnt ends ever at BlueDog, by the river in Peoria but I guess they went out of business after the river flooded. Mom’s down near STL, across from the prison, did an excellent job as well.

    At home these days, I marinate the meat in cheap zesty Italian salad dressing from Aldi, a trick mom taught me, I rub it down with Riley’s, a fine Illinois product I first found at the state fair. I use a humble webber kettle and kingsford, but I also make use of well soaked apple or cherry wood chips. Half the time I start the ribs in the oven and finish them in the kettle. I’m not going to spend six hours on this job, too busy. But my family loves them just like this.

    We also enjoy cedar planked salmon on the grill when it’s affordable. You are missing a treat if you haven’t tried that yet, very easy.

    Comment by Give Us Barabbas Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 1:52 pm

  33. I have never gone out of my way to eat a chicken thigh in my life.

    Until I tried a smoker recipe from a video by mad scientist bbq.

    I am doing two grocery store trays right now. Will be done in a few hours. $12 and we will eat it all weekend, chicken tacos will probably be the grand finale.

    Rich I am wearing out my Traeger. When its gone I am going to look hard at Recteq and Yoder.

    Comment by Occaisionally Moderated Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 2:13 pm

  34. If a BBQ joint doesn’t have snoots it ain’t a BQ joint

    Comment by Pyrman Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 3:00 pm

  35. As a frequent visitor to bbq in Murphy, I must tip my cap to the best pulled pork in the state. Bills in Metropolis. simple, but incredible.

    Comment by Blue Dog Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 3:15 pm

  36. my thoughts are that my heart immediately said “I need to get some Gale Street ribs.” and then my head remembered and I’m so sad.

    Comment by Amalia Friday, Jul 18, 25 @ 4:05 pm

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